Welcome to the official “I’m jetlagged or there’s no way I’d be up at this hour” edition of Super Bon. It’s too early to work and anyway I was going to take the day off (except for answering a slew of emails). So here’s a long, detailed blog entry instead.
We returned last night from our eight day journey to Europe happy to be home(1) but pleased to have gone. A week is a weird amount of time to spend in a place–just long enough to begin wondering about the non-touristy side of things and too short to do anything about it.
Business
As you may recall, we went because I had a speaking gig at a conference; it was called Transformations in Art and Culture. The whole thing was very interesting. The keynotes were each fascinating in their own way. Lisa Parks is doing this absolutely wild research on the destruction of telecommunications infrastructure as preparing the way for so-called globalization. It’s exactly the kind of thing I would like, seeing as it covers both destruction and infrastructure. Steven Kline I’d never met or read before, and he’s unique as far as I can tell — he speaks the cultural studies speak but does research in the media effects tradition. This of course was occasion for us to have an argument and I have promised him I will read any three things on effects research of his choosing to see if I change my mind. Nice guy, generally on the right side of things, even if we don’t agree on specifics. I didn’t actually meet the other keynote, Janneke Wesseling, but she was an art critic who had really harsh things to say about the state of art museums in the Netherlands. I liked it because it’s the first time that I’ve heard someone who has status in the museum world say publically that she thinks they have lost their way. I do too. In the Q&A I asked her about what she’d like to see, and her example of a good art museum was the Walker Art Center in Minneapolis. I grew up with this museum, and until I left Minnesota, I didn’t realize that the Walker was not a “run of the mill” art museum. For a year, Carrie and I actually lived a block away from there.
The second day of the conference was presentations by the working groups, made up of a faculty leader, a postdoc and a grad student (in slightly different configurations). that was also just great. Although I absolutely loved the work of the sound studies group, I probably learned more from the group dealing with globalization and the Roma in Eastern Europe. Mostly because I know so little about the Roma.
All in all a great event — lots of opportunities for talking during and after, which is what I love about small conferences.
Perhaps more interesting to readers of this blog (you know who you are)(2) is the fact that there was a Rob Schneider movie being shot elsewhere on the premises. On the second day, I walked right through the shoot and there he was directing traffic. Carrie saw it, as did Lisa, so it’s not just me. It appears to be a sequel to “Deuce Bigalow, European Gigolo.” We’ve never seen any of his movies, but now I think I’d better see at least one.
The other ‘work” part of the trip came on Wednesday in Maastricht, where I gave a guest lecture to an STS (Science, Technology and Society) working group at the University of Maastricht. That was just great. I met a bunch of wonderful people, including my host Karin Bijsterveld with whom I’d only ever corresponded (she was also at the NWO even in Amsterdam). Karin is the kind of person with a drawer full of projects she wishes she had time for — on top of her current work and all of which are fascinating — and she has a really sharp, creative mind. Between talking with her, talking with the other faculty there, and the audience response to the actual talk, I’d say this was one of my most useful guest-speaker trips ever. I have tons of notes for the mp3 project, which will be very useful this summer.
Carrie also did some work, but she can narrate that herself if she wants. She interviewed people about the Theo Van Gogh killing, and the video. We saw the video and I am quite certain it pushed all the right buttons, even as its substantive critique — that religious fundamentalism can harbor sexual violence and patriarchal relations between men and women — is pretty “garden variety.”
Play
Amsterdam is a whole lot smaller than I thought it would be. We could walk amost everywhere, though if we were tired or in a hurry, we could talk the trams around. We did the usual tourist things, I suppose, if not in the usual sequence. Since our plane got in at 6am and we couldn’t check in to our hotel until 2pm, we wandered around in a daze and began what I call the “Nazi Atrocity” tour of Amsterdam, first with the Anne Frank House. The thing about this place is that it’s the kind of thing tourists do, and yet it’s got an authenticity to it that I rarely find. Walking through there was quite moving and they handled it very well. Perhaps the thing that blew me away most was a copy of Otto Frank’s identity papers (Anne’s father). His mother’s maiden name? Sterne.
After that, we walked around a bit. Descartes’ old house is actually around the corner (but you can’t go in), as is a lesbian/gay monument.
The next morning, before the conference, we hit the old Sephardic Synogogue and Jewish History Center, which had an amazing exhibit by a Russian photographer who travelled around with the Soviet Army during WWII. the only problem is that in the Jewish History museum, you don’t find out that much about Amsterdam’s Jewish community. You find out a lot about Jews (I went to Hebrew School for several years. I know everything I want to know). Worse yet, it conflates antiZionism and antiSemetism, including a photo of a 2002 demonstration against Israeli violence against Palestinians as an example of contemporary antisemitism. Not cool. End of Nazi atrocity tour.
Other touristy highlights:
–the Amsterdam history museum, which was fascinating but also exhausting. Lots of detail, and lots of combing over old oil painting for clues to the history of the “golden age”. I think I pay too much attention in most museums. I want to look at everything and inspect it carefully. The thing is, the place is designed for you to browse a bunch of stuff and just do that once in awhile. I can’t seem to do that. The highlight, though, was a working stereoscope with street scenes from the 19th century in all their faux-three dimentional splendor.
–the canal boat tour, which we liked so much, we actually went twice. The second time was just to ride around in a boat on the canals.
–I was surprised that I actually liked the Van Gogh museum even though I’m not that fond of impressionism and
–the most touristy thing we did was the “museum of cats” (I can hear the groans all the way from wherever you’re sitting. just be quiet for a minute.) Yes, it was totally a tourist trap, but the fact of the matter is that once you get past the smell (someone’s “thinking outside the box”), they have some amazing stuff, and we scored a couple cool posters; one for my office.
Of course we ate a lot. The only things worth reporting, though, are the best filled doughnut I have ever had, and the best ice cream I ever had (the latter in Maastricht).
Speaking of Maastricht, I did a little touristy stuff there too. I can’t remember anymore what the oldest structure is that I’ve ever seen, but the city wall from 1229 might be it. There was also a chuch that had materials from 1000AD in it, and some gravestones built into the floor. Freaky.
Actually, I think the best part of the whole trip was probably just getting around, looking at all the buildings and moving through the narrow medieval streets. The most disurbing thing is that like most downtowns at this point, it’s kind of a museum of itself, crossed with a shopping mall. Hey, they have a Mexx, just like downtown Montreal!
I also took my first train trip of my life (round trip Amsterdam Maastricht), which I just loved. Can’t believe I waited this long to do that. The views were great, and I also worked through Agamben’s The Open: Man and Animal, which is the first Agamben I’ve read. Fascinating stuff, though with a disappointing ending. I may have more to say when my head’s not spinning from the trip.
By now, you’re probably wondering where my schtick about the coffeeshops is. What coffeeshops?
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1. I don’t know if other pet owners have this phenomenon, but whenever we go on a big trip, we start missing our cats right away. It’s probably because we’d actually have some leisure time to hang out with them if we were there.
2. You may recall the anonymous football fan. I think I’m going to develop a whole cast of characters. We now have anonymous Rob Schneider fan.